SIMPLIFIED DIRECTIONS 



FOR USING 



L. B. HALE'S 



New Tailor System of 



' I 




•tfi 




mp 




A Marvel of Simplicity. A Mtacle of perfection. 



AGENTS WANTED. 



Entered according to act of Congress in the year 1885. by L. B. Hale, in the office of 
the Librarian of Congress at Washington. 



Address: L. B. HALK, 



:e*. o. bos 212, 
MERIDEN, CONN. 



Wholesale and Retail Price List 



System, per doz $12 00 

i A " -- 7 50 

" " 1 without lessons 3 5° 

1 with " 15 00 

vVood and Brass System, per doz 36 00 

<< << " " y 2 u 2000 

" " " " 1 without lessons 5 00 

" " " " 1 with " ....+. 25 00 

Measure Books, per doz 2 25 

y 2 " -- --- 1 25 

" " 1 __ 25 

Double Adjustable Tracing Wheel (the best), per doz... 6 00 

U (I K " " i/ << -J jr 

" " " " " I I OO 

Tailors' Satteen Measure (the best), per doz 3 00 

y " 1 75 

" « « " 1 50 

N OTIC E! 

When ordering any one article, send the price of article with 
order and we will ship the article ordered prepaid by express or 
mail. Be sure and write your name and address plainly, and sign 
your name Miss or Mrs. as the case may be. Should there be 
any delay in getting the goods ordered, notify us at once, giving 
the date you sent the order. Agents, when ordering goods at 
wholesale, must always send at least $2 with order, and to save 
C. O. D. charges, it is best to send full amount with order. 
Address all orders to S 

L. B. HALE & CO., 

IE 3 - O. Box 212, Ix^EIE^IIDIESSr, COIfcT^T. 

NOTICE! 

Send with order an envelope with your name and address on 
it and stamped, ready to notify you when goods are shipped. 









NOTICE TO BEGINNERS. 



Two measures are given below to practice with ; use no other 
until you can draft from them. Begin with the first measure. 
When you can draft from that then take the second measure. 
When you can draft from both measures, then you can draft 
irom any measure. The time to draft a waist, when learned, 
is three minutes, but don't begin with the idea that you can 
learn the best system in the world in three minutes or three 
hours, but devote as much careful study as you can every day 
until you have learned perfectly. It will be but a few days until 
you become perfect ; in fact, a great many cut dresses after 
a few hours' study. 



FIRST MEASURE. 

Neck ii 

Arms eye 1 1 

Bust 34 

Waist 22 

Front 191^ 

Top of Darts 13^ 

Front Test 14.1^ 

Back 16 

Underarm 91/ 

Shoulder 6 



SECOND MEASURE. 

Neck 12 

Arms eye 12 

Bust 40 

Waist 25 

Front 19 

Top of Darts 1 4^ 

Front Test 1 3 y z 

Back 16 

Underarm 8 

Shoulder 5^ 



DIRECTIONS FOR TAKING THE MEASURE. 



Tie a piece of braid around the waist tight, push it as low as 
possible, or where you wish the waist to come. 

With a tape-line measure the neck inside of collar close to 
neck, not ti°:ht. 



3. Take Anns Eye, measure around the arm very tight, close to 

body, and 2 inches below point of shoulder bone. Be 
sure and take this measure very tight ; arm-hole will 
always be at least 6 inches larger when waist is put 
together. 

4. Take bust measure entirely around the body, under the 

arms. Be sure and have the tape-line pass over fullest 
part of the bust, and loose enough to pass two fingers 
inside under tape across the bust, at the same time slope 
the line up over the shoulder blade in back, and stand at 
back of person when taking bust measure. This measure 
must be from 2 to 3 inches larger than tight measure. 

5. Take waist measure around waist tight. 

6. Take front measure from most prominent bone in back of 

neck around top of shoulders and down to waist line in 
centre of trout. 

7. Measure from prominent bone in back of neck around the 

shoulder down as low as you wish the top of darts to 
come. 

8. Measure from neck, in front, down to waist line, allowing y> 

inch seam at neck. This is front test measure. 

9. Take back measure from prominent bone in back of neck, 

straight down to waist or braid in centre of back. 

10. Take the under arm measure as high under centre arm as 

possible down to braid at waist line at side. Always 
have the person stand straight, with arms down at side. 

1 1. Take shoulder measure straight across top of shoulder, plac- 
ing end of tape line where the neck joins the body, to a 
point one-half inch over point of shoulder. This measure 
must never be taken shorter than directed, for it will 
make the dress too narrow across the chest. 

DIRECTIONS FOR SEEEVE MEASURE. 

1. Take the measure for sleeve length, starting at point of 

shoulder over elbow to prominent bone in wrist, having 
the arm bent to the bust. 

2. Take a measure around the hand tight. 

3. Arms live Measure ; allow six inches more than tight meas- 

ure taken for arms eye measure in waist, or measure arms 
eve to waist when put together, allowing i } A inches for 
fullness. 



NOTICE — Don't Fail to Number the Dots and Letter your Lines 
when Learning. Dorit forget it. 



14. 
15- 

16. 



7- 

8. 



Draw line A 1 inch from edge of 

paper. 
Draw line B l /> inch from top of 
paper and square from line A. 
Make dot 1, % inch from line B 

on line A. 
Make dot 2, 3)^ inches from line 

B on line A. 
Make dot 3 on line A below line 
B % inch longer than back 
measure. 
Draw line C square from dot 2. 
Draw line D square from dot 3. 
Make dot 4 on line D l /> inch 

from dot 3. 
Make dot 5 as far from dot 3 as 
given in waist table opposite 
waist measure under letter B. 
See waist table. 
Make dot 6 on line A the length 
of under arm measure above 
dot 3. 
Draw line E square from dot 6. 
12. Make dot 7 on line E as far from 
dot 6 as given in bust table opposite bust measure under 
letter C. See bust table. 
Make dot 8 on line B as far from line A as given in 
neck table opposite neck measure under letter A. See 
neck table. 
Draw line F straight from dot 1 to dot 8. 
Place corner of square on dot 8 and have 6 l /> inch mark 

touching line C, then draw line G from dot 8 to line C. 
Measure from dot 8 down line G, and make dot 9 just ]/> 
inch longer than shoulder measure. 




10. 



1 1 



NOTICE — The directions inside of these lines are not used 
for the first measure ; skip them entirely until you begin to 
draft from the second measure, then use them as directed 
and be sure to use them in all measures that require them. 

i. Make a dot on line E, square down from dot 9. Should 
dot 7 be inside, as for first measure, then use dot 7, 
and erase the dot square down. 

2. When dot 7 is % inch or less outside of dot square 

down, then erase dot 7, and use dot square down for 
dot 7. 

3. When dot 7 is over )/ x inch outside of dot square down, 

then make a new dot 'j of the distance from dot 
square down and towards dot 7; then erase the dot 
square down and old dot 7, and number the new dot, 
dot 7 

4. When dot 7 is located get the distance from dot 9 to 

dot 7, and should the space be less than 3^ inches 
it will need no further change, and should the arms 
eye be 12 inches or more, then it must never be more 
than 4 inches; should it be less, don't change it; 
should it be more than directed, measure from dot 9 
towards dot 7 and make it the distance required. 
When arms eye is 11 inches or less, remember it 
must never be more than 3^ inches. 

L#ADIES — Do not fail to study this until you understand it 
well. It is where all other Systems, Charts and Machines 
fail. It is hard to perfect, which makes it the hardest part 
to learn. The directions given include every variation of 
the form. 



17. Draw line H by placing point B on dot 7, and extend the 
curve to dot 9. 

Make dot 10 on line H, \ l / 2 inches above dot 7. 

Draw line 1 by placing point C on dot 5 ; draw the curve to 
dot 10. 

Draw line J straight from dot 2 to dot 4. 

Make dot 1 1 on line A 6 inches below dot 3. 

Make dot 12 as far from dot 1 1 as dots 3 and 5 are apart. 

Make dot 13 as much further from dot 12 as half the dis- 
tance between dots 11 and 12. 

Draw line K straight from dot 4 to dot f i. 

Draw line L straight from dot 5 to dot 13. 

Make (Jot 14 on line D as far from dot 5 as given in waist 
table opposite waist measure under letter C. 



18 
'9 

20 

21 
22 

23 

24 

25 
26 



27. 

28. 



2 9 . 



30. 

3i- 



Make dot 15, i inch from dot 12, towards dot 1 1. 

Make dot 16, 1 inch further from dot 1 1 than the distance is 

from dot 3 to 4. Notice — If for large full hips, add ]/ 2 

inch to dot 16. 
Place point D on dot 14 and extend curve to dot 7. Notice 

— To do this, turn System over and have the straight part 

of curve pass over dot 7. 
Draw line N straight from dot 5 to dot 15. 
Draw line O by turning System over and placing point D 

on dot 14; have straight part of curve pass over dot 16. 

Notice — When form is very straight up the back and 

hollow between the shoulders, draw line J straight from 

dot 1 to dot 4. 



.'DO I o 






23 22 
6 j| r 



l9 „ 2 ?i, 2i 



8 i ft 



Front Diagram. 



i. Draw line A iyi inches from edge of paper. 

2. Draw line B ^2 inch from top of paper and square from line 

A. 

3. Make dot 1 on line A 2]/ 2 inches from line B. 

4. Make dot 2 on line A as far from line B as given in neck 

table opposite neck measure under letter C. 

5. Make dot 3 on line B as far from line A as given in neck 

table opposite neck measure under letter D. 

6. Draw line C square from dot 2. 

7. Make dot 4 on line A one-half of arms eye measure below 

dot 1. 

8. Draw line D square from dot 4. 

9. Make dot 5 on line D as far from dot 4 as given in bust table 

opposite bust measure under letter A. 

10. Make dot 6 on line D as far from dot 5 towards line A as 

given in waist table opposite waist measure under letter 
D. 

11. Make dot 7 on line A below dot 4 the length of under arm 

measure. 

12. Draw line E square from dot 7. 

13. Draw line F square down from dot 6, starting at line D and 

passing down over line E. 

14. Make dot 8 on line F 6 inches below line E. 

15. Make dot 9 as you see it shown in diagram, 2 inches from 

dot 8. 

16. Place point D at junction of lines E and F and extend the 

straight part of curve down over dot 9. Have the System 
bottom side up when drawing line G. 

17. Place point N on dot 2 and draw line H to dot 3. 

18. Place the corner of square on dot 3, at same time have 6 l /> 

inch mark touching line C, and draw line 1 from dot 3 to 
line C. 

19. Make dot 10 on line I just the length of shoulder measure, 

starting at dot 3. 

20. Draw line J square down to line D from dot 10. 

21. Make dot 11 on line J 1 inch above line D. 

22. Make dot 12 straight toward line A ^ of an inch from dot 

1 1. 

23. Place extreme end of curve on dot 10 and draw the curve 

to dot 12. 

24. Make dot 13 on line F ^ inch below dot 6. 

25. Place point S on dot 12 and draw the curve to dot 13. 

26. Make dot 14 on line F 2 inches below dot 6. 

27. Make dot 15 on line A 4^ inches below dot 4. 

28. Draw line L from dot 14 to dot 15. 

29. Place the length given in neck table opposite neck measure 

under letter A on dot 3 and make dot 18 on line A the 
length of front measure. 



30. Draw line M from dot 18 to junction of lines E and F. 

31. Make dot 19 on line E j^ inch from junction of lines E and 

F. 

32. Make dot 20 on line E as far from junction of lines E and F 

as given in waist table opposite waist measure under let- 
ter D. 

33. Make dot 21 on line E as far from dot 20 as given in waist 

table opposite waist measure under letter E. 

34. Measure from dot 21 to pass over dot 5, and make dot 

22 the length between dots 14 and 7 in back diagram. 

35. Draw line N straight from dot 6 to dot 19. 

36. Draw line O straight from dot 21 to dot 22. 

37. Make dot 23 straight towards line J }£ of an inch. See dia- 

gram. 

38. Make dot 24 on line O 2 x / 2 inches below line D. 

39. Draw line straight from dot 23 to dot 24, then erase line O 

from dot 24 to dot 22. 

40. Draw lower part of line N from dot 19 to dot 8, placing 

point D on dot 19; draw the curve down to pass over 
point A. 

41. Make dot 25, 2 inches further from dot 8 than the distance 

from junction of lines E and F to dot 21. Notice where 
dot 25 is in diagram. 

42. Draw line P from dot 21 to dot 25 by placing point D on 

dot 21. Notice that the curve curves out, not in. 

NEXT COMES THE DARTS ; THE DOTS WILL 

BEGIN TO NUMBER AT 1, ANO LINES 

BEGIN TO LETTER AT LETTER A. 

1. Make dot 1 on line M 2 inches from dot 18. 

2. Make dot 2 on line M as far from dot 1 as given in dart table 

opposite waist measure, under bust measure. See dart table. 

3. Make dot 3 online M half way between 1 and 2. 

4. Make dot 4 on line L, from dot 15, just % inch less the dis- 

tance dot 18 and dot 3 are apart. 

5. Draw line A from dot 4 on line L to pass down over dot 3 on 

line M. 

6. Draw lines B and C as shown in diagram by placing point D 

on dot 4. Do not draw the line below line M. 

7. Make dot 5 on line A 10 inches below dot 3. 

8. Draw lower part of lines B and C to pass straight down from 

dots 1 and 2 so as to meet at dot 5. 

9. Make dot 6 on line M 1 inch from dot 2. 

10. Make dot 7 on line M as far from dot 6 as dots 1 and 2 are 

apart. 

11. Make dot 8 on line M half way between dots 6 and 7. 

12. Make dot 9 on line L from dot 15 just % inch less the dis- 

tance between dots 8 and 18. 

13. Draw line A from dot 9 to pass down over dot 8. 



Directions 
measure. 



14. Make dot 10 on line A 10 inches below dot 8. 

15. Draw lines B and C same as shown in diagram, placing point 

D on dot 9, stopping the lines at dots 6 and 7. 

16. Draw the lower part of line B and C straight from dot 6 to 

dot 10, and from dot 7 to dot 10. 

SPECIAL NOTICE, 

for using front test measure and height of dart 

Make a dot on line A 
above dot 18, the length 
of front test measure. 

Draw a line straight 
from dot 3 to the dot 
just made on line A. 
Make a dot on line just 
drawn from dot 3 to- 
wards line A one-quar- 
ter the distance less 
than it is from dot 2 to 
the dot given by front 
test measure. 
Draw new line H, as 
shown in diagram, by 
dotted line, with same 
curve as old line H was 
drawn with. 

5. Draw new line I straight, 
starting i l /i inches from 
point of shoulder as 
shown in diagram by 
dotted line. 

6. Place straight edge of 
rule on dot 3, at neck, 
at same time have 
straight edge pass 
down over dot 3 on 




waist line ; now measure from dot 3 at neck towards dot 3 
on line M and make a dot the length of height of dart 
measure less the distance given in neck table opposite 
neck measure, under letter A. 
7. From dot just made draw a line parallel with line L as shown 
by dotted line; erase old line L and use new line L for 
height of darts. 

HOW TO TRACE FROM PATTERN TO THE 

GOODS. 

1. Trace front first, by placing pattern on the goods and tracing 

the dotted lines A, M, H, I, K, F and G; then trace dot- 
ted lines to darts ; then remove pattern and cut. Allow 
hem in front of line A ; cut on line H ; allow seam on line 
I; cut on line K ; allow seam on lines F and G. 

2. Place pattern on goods and trace the dotted lines E, N, K, O 

and P ; then remove pattern and cut, allowing seams on 
all lines except line K ; cut on line K. 

3. Place pattern of back on goods; trace on dotted lines D, J, 

F, G, H, I, K and L; remove pattern and cut, allowing 
seams on all lines except lines F and H ; cut on lines F and 
H. 

4. Place pattern on goods and trace on dotted lines D, I, H, M, 

N and O ; remove pattern and cut, allowing seams on all 
lines except line H ; cut on line H. 

5. NOTICE — For Polonaise, when lining is cut, place the front 

on the goods and measure from waist line down on line G 
from 6 to 7 inches, and the same to under arm gore on line 
N below waist line, then place the two points together and 
cut the goods. In back, plaits can be allowed from edge 
of goods, also between back and back side body. 

CLOAKS AND SACQUES 

are drafted same as for common basque, with the following ex- 
ception: If goods are light weight, add % inch to hem when 
drafting is completed. Darts can be made smaller if you wish 
more looseness. Dot 13, in front, is l / 2 inch below dot 6; for heavy 
goods, add to hem l / 2 of an inch. Shoulder can be made l /> 
inch longer if desired. Back is same as for common waist. 

SKIRT PROPORTION. 

Front breadth at top, 6 to 8 inches ; side breadth at top, 8 to 
12 inches; back breadth is plain. 

To make skirt 80 inches at bottom : Front breadth, 12 inches 
at bottom; side breadth, 15 inches ; back breadth, 13 inches. 



IO 



To made skirt 90 inches or 2 x / 2 yards at bottom : Front breadth, 
13 inches; side breadth, 16 inches; back breadth, 16 inches. 

To make skirt 100 inches at bottom : Front breadth, 14 inches ; 
side breadth, 17 inches; back breadth, 19 inches. 

The tullness at top can be held into a belt that just fits the 
waist, either in gathers or in small plaits. The fullness must 
never be held in any further front than side of waist. The full- 
ness ought to be mostly in back ; the skirt can be gathered all 
the way round if desired. 

Draw line A 33^ 
inches from edge of 
cloth or paper. 
Draw line B 3 inches 
from upper edge of 
cloth and square 
from line A. 
Make dot 1 on line 
A 2 inches from line 
B. 

Make dot 2 on line 
B 8 inches from line 
A. 

Draw line C from dot 
1 to pass over dot 2. 
Make dot 3 on line 
C from dot 1 just 
the distance given 
in sleeve table on 
short arm of square, 
opposite arms eye 
measure under let- 
ter C 
Draw line D from dot 

1 to 3 with inside 
curve in square ; the 
curve must be placed 
on dots 1 and 3. 
Make dot 4 on line C 

2 inches from dot 3, 
towards line A. 
Make dot 5 straight 
towards line D \]/i 
inches from dot 4. 
Draw line E. from 
dot 1 to dot 5, with 
the end of outside 

curve 




I I 

ii. Make dot 6 on line A as far from dot i as given in sleeve 
length table, opposite sleeve length, under letter Ii. 

12. Make dot 7 on line A from dot 1, just '- inch le^s than half 

the distance between dot 1 and dot 6. 

13. Draw line F square from dot 3. 

14. Make dot 8 on line F square above dot 7. 

15. Make dot 9 on line F, 2 inches from dot 8. See diagram. 

16. Draw line G from dot 7 to dot 9. 

17. Make dot 10 on line G, l /> inch from dot 9. 

18. Make dot n on line G, 3^ inches from dot 9. 

19. Draw line H from dot 1 to dot 7, by placing point D on 

dot 7. 

20. Draw line I straight from dot 5 to dot 11. 
2i. Draw line J straight from dot 3 to dot 10. 

22. Make dot 12 on line A, 2 inches from dot 6. See diagram. 

23. Make dot 13 square from line A and 4 inches from dot 12. 

24. Draw line K from dot 13 to pass down over dot 6 to edge 

of goods. 

25. Make dot 14 on line A, 3 inches from dot 7, towards dot 6. 

26. Make dot 15 one inch from dot 14 and straight towards 

edge of paper. See diagram. 

27. Extend line H from dot 7 to line K, by placing point A on 

dot 7, having the curve pass over clot 15. System must 
be bottom side up. 

28. Make dot 16 on line K, as far from junction of lines H and K 

as in sleeve table, opposite hand measure, under letter A. 

29. Measure from junction of lines H and K towards dot 16, 

and make dot 17 the balance of hand measure — for instance, 
if the hand measure is 8, the top of sleeve is 5^ inches, 
which leaves 2*^ for under part of sleeve. 

30. Extend line J straight from dot 10 to dot 16. 

31. Extend line 1 straight from dot 11 to dot 17. 

32. Ease off the corner at the elbow with the curve. See dia- 

gram. 

33. When cutting sleeve, allow seams on lines H, I and J ; cut 

on lines D, E and K. 

SLEEVE MEASURE FOR PRACTICE. 

Length, 22 ; hand, 8 ; arms eye, 16^. NOTICE— To get arms 
eye for sleeve, measure arms eye of waist after waist is basted, 
then allow 1 l A inches for fullness. 



PORTABLE AND ADJUSTABLE 




No. 1. No. 2. No. 3. No. I 

Patented Oct. lath, 1880. Two Patents Jan. 35th, 1881, July 5th, 1881. 

. s 

LADIES! 

I have sold and used every Dress Form now in use. The best and nr 
complete of all is shown in the cut above; it can be easily adjusted for a ch 
5 years of age or the largest lady ; any one part can be adjusted indepench 
of any other part, thus giving all shapes and sizes. .Figure No. i shows t 
complete form ; No. 2 shows Form with dress on ; No. 3 shows Skirt alor 
No. 4 shows Form all closed up. Price for Skirt and Bust is $S.c 
Skirt Form alone, $4.25. All orders addressed to L. B. HALE & O 
P. O. Box 212, Meriden, Conn. 

NOTICE! 

No Form will be shipped unless at least $2 accompanies the order, 
save C. O. D. bill, the full amount can be sent with order. To avoid all p< 
sible mistakes, send with order an envelope with your name and address, a 
stamped ready for use, to notify you when goods are shipped. 



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^VT^ N. MANCHESTER, 
^^^y INDIANA 



























